OUR MISSION: TO PROMOTE CURIOSITY AND EDUCATION BY BRINGING TO LIFE STORIES OF PEOPLE AND PLACES IN THE UNITED STATES, ONE STATE AT A TIME.
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larger than life
Daily Stories FROM aLABAMA


I need to tell the story

7/13/2022

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Little did I know the everlasting impact this day would have upon me.  My story today begins in Africatown, Alabama.  It is located about five miles out of Mobile. To better understand the impact, let me first share the saddening and courageous history of Africatown.
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In 1807, a federal act prohibited persons for slavery to be imported to the United States.  Fifty-two years later, a group of wealthy white businessmen wagered a bet.  They wanted to see if they could evade the authorities importing new Africans to enslave.  The ship avoided the normal docks in the middle of the night to be undetected.  Downstream, the Africans were transferred over to a steam ship.  The crew then burned the original vessel so there would be no proof of their illegal actions.  One year later, the Federal courts found the wagering businessmen and crew not guilty of a crime as there was not sufficient evidence to convict.  
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Thirty-two of the slaves from that vessel gained freedom and began the community of Africatown. The oldest survivor, Cudjoe Lewis, became a leader for the community and the community thrived for many years. One of his primary goals was to maintain the traditions of their tribe in the United States. A monument honoring his efforts was placed in 1959 in front of the local Baptist church. There are still about 100 known descendants living there today.
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As I drove through the well weathered and unmaintained streets, I was exposed to a lot of poverty.  I found myself stopping many times trying to take it all in - the brutal history, the once thriving community and the present living conditions.  
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As I was about to leave Africatown, I saw a freshly painted garage in front of me.  As I stopped, I noticed four young black men intently watching me.  Feeling intimidated I was about to abruptly leave.  Instead, I exited my car and introduced myself.  We engaged in a conversation for over thirty minutes.  These young men want to bring opportunities back to their community - especially the youth.  The once abandoned garage is being transformed into a welding training center.  The center is in honor of Leslie Bernard Stone Jr. who lost his life in the community at the of seventeen.  The garage was passed down to Leslie's father by his grandfather.  In the photo above stands Leslie Sr wearing the black jacket.  Throughout our conversation I listened to his personal words of pain, hope and faith.  We walked around the area as we continued our conversation.
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The other side of the garage proudly displays Leslie aside his grandfather.  This group of men hope to offer a tuition free program in the future. Upon my departure, I shook each of their hands sharing my words of gratitude.  The handshakes transformed into hugs. Today I will not forget.  Encounters such as today are my most favorite parts of this epic journey.  It is the people I encounter which I draw most out of these experiences.  
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Behind the scenes

7/5/2022

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As I buckle up for a new day of exploration, I feel a sense of exhilaration.  The two planned adventures have been on my bucket list since I entered the wonderful and surprising state of Alabama.  First stop is in the quaint, historical town of Monroeville.
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This morning is very quiet and peaceful as I seem to be the only one moving around this early in the day.  Even if I never watched the film or read the book, I am familiar with the story.  Over 40,000,000 books have been sold in over 40 different languages.  The birth of a baby girl in this small town will forever change the course of literacy.  Her first writing was turned away from being published.  Her second writing earned her the Pulitzer Prize and Presidential Medal of Honor.  Her name is Nelle Harper Lee (Ellen spelled backwards honoring her grandmother).  Her writing is, "To Kill a Mockingbird". 
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Nelle’s hometown celebrates her in multiple ways. As I explore the grounds of the courthouse, I discover several bronze statues celebrating reading. There are also small stages on the backside where once a year the locals participate in a play acting out Nelle's writing. Inside the courthouse, one can visit a small museum and gift shop honoring Nelle. A local comes to me asking me if this is my first time in Monroeville. She then asks if I ever watched the 1960's film which won three Academy Awards. I reply, "I haven't even read the book." She gives me a verbal recommendation to do both.
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I travel to a local cemetery located across the street from a church. Her gravesite is easy to spot with so many people honoring her six years after she passed.  I add a penny to the multiple pennies laid by others.  As I walk away, I smile knowing I will read the book and I will watch the film.  
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 My next and final destination today was a bit difficult to find as there are no identifiable signs.  I follow the road until I am abruptly stopped by a gate.  I look around to see a security camera is watching me.  The weathered sign tells me to place $3 in a provided envelope and telephone to receive the gate code.   I feel the sense of exhilaration again as I approach a fictious town.  This town is a full movie prop for Tim Burton's film, "Big Fish" (released 2004).  I enter the town of Spectre, through a set of Styrofoam trees offering a circular entrance.  Above me are hundreds of pairs of sneakers hanging on the dead power lines. 
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The dirt road is lined up with empty shelled homes.  As I follow the road to the church, I notice the buildings are quite scarred.  Later I learn this was intentionally done for the film.  There is not a lot to see as there are only six home facades and a church.  It is worth the road trip though as it is quite a unique experience to walk an abandoned movie set in the middle of nowhere.
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As I begin my travel back to my home-on-wheels, I load up the audio reading of "To Kill a Mockingbird by Sissy Spacek. As she begins to narrate, I sense the feeling of exhilaration for the third time today. Furthermore, I am looking forward to my evening as I watch this book come to life in the Academy Award winning film starring Greogry Peck. This story, and the future viewing of “Big Fish” will be more enjoyable knowing I went "behind the scenes" today as I continue traveling through Alabama.
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A BUG'S LIFE - BOLL WEEVIL, THAT IS!

6/29/2022

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This is a first.  A first for a city in America and a first for me.  A city, holding high and proud the insect, which changed their history - a grossly infesting, almost impossible to exterminate, cotton eating beetle - the Boll Weevil.  Welcome to downtown Enterprise, Alabama!
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This 1/4-inch insect invaded the southern cotton industry from our southern neighbor, Mexico. in the very late 1800's.  Check this out - one mating pair produces 2-million offspring!  The city of Enterprise, located in the Coffee County, almost lost everything as cotton was their economic support. This multi-offspring and indestructible beetle were raining havoc on all the farmers.
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Near the downtown boll weevil monument is a barely funded museum housing many artifacts of the past.  Some of the antique objects are covered with blue Visqueen protecting it from a leaky roof in dire need of repair.  One piece of machinery grabbed my attention - the Boll Weevil Killer (I gave it that name).  This homemade contraption would shake each passing plant throwing the beetle into a leather pouch for later destruction.
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Several times in the city's history, residents woke up to the reaching arms broken off of this unique monument and the black beetle missing.  Some got away with and some got caught.  In the window of a downtown building, displays the last time the Greek god's arms were broken a 'bugnapping' on the evening of May 15, 1981.  A local radio station installed cameras and to this day, she remains intact with the Boll Weevil proudly on display.
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Several times in the city's history, residents woke up to the reaching arms broken off of this unique monument and the black beetle missing.  Some got away with and some got caught.  In the window of a downtown building, displays the last time the Greek god's arms were broken a 'bugnapping' on the evening of May 15, 1981.  A local radio station installed cameras and to this day, she remains intact with the Boll Weevil proudly on display.
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As I drive in and out of the streets of city of Enterprise I see it everywhere - the celebration of the Boll Weevil.  A town takes something 'evil' and turns it into prosperity!  Way to go! Also, thanks for the bit of weirdness making this a first for me - visiting a city because of a bug - A Bug's Life!
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THAT IS NUTS, YES NUTS!

6/27/2022

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Where would we be without peanut butter? Who doesn't love a handful of peanuts on occasion?  Did you know that 50% of American peanuts we enjoy so much are harvested within a 100-mile radius of the City of Dothan?  Dothan claims to be the 'Peanut Capital of the World'.  ​
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Entering Dothan, it is little obvious they are super confident in their claim holding an annual National Peanut Festival - a little nutty?  Well, it does attract over 200,000!  As you drive through the streets, huge child-size peanuts are waving to you.  ​
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There are over 40 of these fun shell people to find.  Go to the visitor center to get a map so you can get the full 'spread' of their locations.  Each one has its own unique personality.  The entire morning, I am driving up and down streets, through alleys, and into parking lots as I just can't get enough of these 'shelled' characters.  ​
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As I am going 'nuts' searching for these peanuts, I begin noticing many huge murals on sides of buildings. A local tells me there are 19 murals within an eight-block radius and with each mural is a unique story to be told.  In my travels I have seen a lot of murals, but there is something different about these.  This one definitely grabbed my attention.
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The story goes like this - In 1889, the city tried to impose a tax on commercial carts.  The locals went to the streets and a huge riot broke out on Main Street (exact spot of this mural).  Marshall Toby was one of the instigators.  Many folks today say the ghost of Marshall Tucker still patrols the streets, late evenings, trying to keep them safe. ​
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During the War of 1812, many soldiers were taken by malaria and dysentery. An outdoor care center, Camp Recovery, was built to separate the sick soldiers from the healthy soldier.  As I view this most unusual mural, I find my eyes being drawn to the left corner where a man is offering a cup to very sick man.
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As I am about to depart from Alabama, I realize one thing I have missed.  A certain meal all Alabamans know too well - Meat and Three.

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I remember reading that there is a restaurant, on the outskirts of Dothan, which has won the award, 'States Best Meat and Three'.  Oh, I have to make one more stop!
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I grab a red plastic tray and get in line at the school-like cafeteria style buffet.  My meat - easy - fried chicken, of course.  My 3 sides, well that gets a bit more complicated with so many southern options.  I am told by multiple staff members to get the cabbage and mac n' cheese.  I stop at the desserts and smile spotting banana bread pudding.  ​
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As I gather and eat the crunchy crumbs, which fell to my plate earlier from the fried chicken coating, I smile knowing what I am about to do next.  I looked around, as I don't want to be seen to do what I am about to do.   I pick up my Styrofoam banana bread pudding bowl and begin licking the entire inside. As I set it down, I smile realizing, in that moment, I returned to my childhood. As I leave the store, the owners Zack and Diane ask me if I enjoyed my meal.  Zack walks me over to a wall where there are over 25 awards for their restaurant.  Zack tells me the biggest honor was, 'Businessman of the Year' award.  His last comment to me is asking how many meals I think they served today between the hours of 11:00 am to 4:00 pm.  Zach smiles and humbly says, "Over 600 lunches in 4 hours".  

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Dothan is a city worth the visit for so many reasons, including feasting at Zacks Restaurant.  In my 13 states of traveling so far, this lunch is one of my top 10 meals I experienced - yes it was an experience.  By the way - Why did the man smear peanut butter all over the highway? To go with the Traffic Jam! Haha!
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SUPRISING SCAVENGER HUNT

6/23/2022

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I find myself traveling many rural roads to the small town of Elberta (1,709). Just before I enter, I make a right turn on to Fish Trap Road towards Barber Marina.  Down the windy road I spot a few cars parked in the dirt.  A good sign.  Within 200 feet of the wooded area is Bamahenge.  An amazing out-of-place attraction created by Mark Cline.  This is a replica of a 5,000-year-old architectural mystery located in England. A really cool stop.
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A little further down the same road, if you look carefully, you will find four monstrous dinosaurs lurking in the woods. ​
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Next to one dino, behind a chain-link fence, I spot another odd sighting.  As I approach it I see it not maintained well.  It is truly abandoned.  There is no plaque.  As I circle it I am thinking to myself, "Who would create such a thing and in the middle of nowhere?'  ​​
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My curiosity puts me back on Fish Trap Road wondering what else will I find.  As the road ends at the marina, I spot more oddities.  A huge 20-foot metal spider, sculptured seahorses and abandoned knights within the unattended gardens.  A huge, dry water fountain of mystical gods, surrounded by untamed creatures, sits in the middle of a roundabout.  This adventure is turning out to be a ton of fun finding the unexpected in unexpected areas.  ​
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I end this remarkable day, with the recommendation of a local, traveling to an old black cemetery to find a tombstone engraved, 'In loving memory of INDIANA JONES'.  This Hollywood fictious star is really not buried here. :)  The local told me it is really a black woman from this area.  What a day!  Let me say it again - What a day!  A day full of surprises in the tiny corner of Alabama.
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THE CROWNING OF THE BETTER PEACH

6/20/2022

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 I had no idea - Alabama's number one fruit production is 5,700 tons (yes, tons) of the delicious peaches annually.  Chilton County grows 65% of those peaches.  As I travel south on the interstate 65, towards Montgomery, I cannot help to notice a huge peach in the skies.  The popularity of the county began in 1947.  That year they had a bumper crop.  So, to bring optimism to the local folk the first Annual Peach Festival began.  ​
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A couple of miles south, I spot another large peach in Peach Park.  It is next to huge farmers market owned by the founding family since 1984.  On more than 6 acres sits a variety of gift stores, a bakery, a restaurant and even an RV park. Yes, also dozens of peach flavored products from jams to salsa.
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As I enter the open-air market, I find myself surrounded by dozens of peachy photos and young smiling faces.  For 70 years this peachy community proudly continues with the proud tradition crowning Miss Peach Queen.  One of the owners, Robin Gray, greets me and begins sharing various, some hilarious, local stories of this competition. As Robin continues entertaining me with stories, she leads me to the ice cream shop.
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Robin proudly states, "We are probably most known for our homemade ice cream".   The original founder, Frances Gray, still uses her secret sugary recipe creating various delicious flavors of ice cream.  Robin tells me one of the best flavors is cantaloupe ice cream.  Today they seem to have run out of that particular flavor.  The young teen at the counter recommends the pecan caramel ice cream.  As I dip my spoon into it,  I notice the ice cream is thick, gooey and super creamy.  My taste buds jump alive at the incredible flavor and texture., I do declare this to be the best ice cream I have ever experienced in my life.  A stop at Peach Park is absolutely recommended!  In conclusion, a very peachy day today.
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BLOODY SUNDAY - 57 Years later

6/16/2022

 
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A day for so many to remember and a day I hope to remember.  This morning I am traveling about 50 miles east to Selma, Alabama for an annual event.  I find myself reflecting on a conversation from yesterday. I met a woman, in front of the Alabama State Capital, who shared with me the significance of this event - Bloody Sunday. She is the one who brings me on this journey today.

As I approach the bridge, there are state troopers and secret service people everywhere.  The street in front of the bridge is lined up with hundreds of spectators of all ages.  There are a few large charter buses with students from various black colleges who are wearing the same-colored tee-shirts.  I pull out my E-bike believing I will have more mobility than being on foot.  As I join the others along this road, I meet several people eagerly wanting to share their reason for being here.  During my wait I learn more about this event in our history.  A 25-year-old black activist, John Lewis, led 600 individuals across the Edmond Pettus Bridge on their way to the state capital (54 miles).  This march was to bring attention to the state denying blacks the right to vote.   On the other side, lines of white state troopers were waiting.  The individuals refused to turn back around.  They were brutally attacked placing many in the hospital.  The footage hit the national news and caused national outcry.  Today marks the 57th year anniversary which is remembered as, "Bloody Sunday".  ​
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As the thousands begin crossing the bridge, I make the decision to no longer be a spectator but a participant.  I climb on my bike and join them.  My adrenaline peaks and a huge smile light up my face.  I think to myself, "Today is going to be a day I will always remember."  ​

A day like no other

6/14/2022

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As I pay my $5 admission fee, I comment, "It is so awesome you make this museum affordable for everyone." The attendee smiles, "That is the whole point. Anyone and everyone can learn about this part of our history barely taught in our country." I walk on the small trolley bus, which travels several blocks before arriving at the entrance of the National Memorial for Peace and Justice. There are several groups of elementary age school children in the front actively participating in conversations with their tour guide. Walking past them, I enter, only to stop immediately at what is in front of me.
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I slowly circle around this display of slavery, intently looking at the anguished expressions on each face and the actions of each individual. On the other side of the walkway are narratives detailing the origins, history and brutal attempts of trying to end slavery in our country. Many emotions ignite within me as I try to take all of this in this morning. I walk up the winding path and enter the outdoor arena. I stand in the midst of over 800 6-foot hanging from the ceilings. Endless rows surround me from all angles. I look closer at each, seeing many names and some listed “Unknown” with a date underneath.
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Displayed are over 4,400 black men, women and children who were hanged in our country because of their skin color.  Each 6-foot tablet represents every county in the US where lynching occurred between the years of 1877 to 1950.  Yes, 1950.
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It is a most sad day for me as I attempt to take in all that I am witnessing and learning as I read name after name.  I remind myself each name was a person who thought, dreamed and possibly had family.  As I finally walk away, I stop at each exiting memorial inscription reading slowly the words of truth, justice and hope for the future.   
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As I return to the Legacy Museum on the same trolley bus, I am trying to process it all.  The next two hours I am moving from room to room full of 100's of beautiful pieces of art, news clippings and actual photos sharing the history of blacks in our country.  Many rooms offer cutting edge technology where one can engage in holographic conversations with actual descendants of slaves.  The room which affected me the most houses over 800 jars of soil gathered at lynching locations throughout our country.  I end my day short as I am emotionally exhausted with this experience today.  This is a day I will always remember.

(By the way, there are no photos of the Legacy Museum as no cameras were allowed.)
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A historical experience

6/8/2022

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Right across the street from the State Capital. is a most beautiful old church built in 1877.  In 1954, a young 26-year-old black man, named Martin Luther King Jr, became the Baptist Minister.  One year later, his life begins to change dramatically.  
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Rosa Parks was recently arrested for refusing to move from a bus seat so a white man would no longer need to stand in the aisle.  Martin Luther King, Jr offers a group of organizers for a bus boycott to meet in the basement of his church. Soon after, he becomes the driving force of the bus boycott pushing him into national attention.
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Ten years later, 25,000 individuals stand at the State Capital's stairs located across the street from the church.  In front of the mass stands Martin Luther King, Jr, with a petition in his hand trying to secure the right for blacks to be able to vote.  The petition was intended for the current governor at the time, George Wallace.
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As I travel throughout the city, there are murals, monuments and streets named remembering and honoring the impact this young man made during the Civil Rights era in our history.  
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I return back to the State Capital late afternoon as I want to have some time for reflection.  As I am standing in front of the Baptist church, an older black woman approaches me with a smile and simple words, "Where are you from?"  Her warm smile and simple question lead us into an almost one-hour conversation about her 60+ years of living in this city. As we close, she informs me of an annual march which will be occurring in front of these State Capital stairs this weekend.  This march is the anniversary of the same march Martin Luther King, Jr led here 57 years ago.  In that instant, I make the decision to extend my stay in Montgomery so I may be part of this historical event.  As I walk back to my car, I realize today will is a historical day for me.  A day I will always remember from this epic journey I started almost 2 years ago.
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Little did i know until....

6/7/2022

 
My heart begins racing as I approach each state capital during this epic journey, as always. It provides me a strong feeling of accomplishment knowing I am in the midst of adventuring another state. As I approach Alabama's capital, that anticipated heart rate increase does not fail me. Oh, I love the rush!
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I park in front of a beautiful white mansion, located across the street from the Capital building, having no idea of the significance. Within seconds inside, an elderly host informs me I am standing in the foyer of the first Confederate President Jefferson Davis' home. I enthusiastically reply, "I took an elevator to the top of the Jefferson Davis monument stretching 351 feet in the air located in Kentucky. I have also visited the beautiful Presidential Library in Mississippi.” My host smiles ear to ear, "Well, there you go!" We both continue conversing enthusiastically for the next twenty minutes or so. I take all which he shared with me and briskly walk across the street. I stand at the bottom steps of the State Capital.
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Step by step I climb the marble stairs to the top entering through the massive wooden doors. I make a quick inquiry to security asking for directions to a specific plaque I recently learned about.
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I find myself standing right at the spot where it all happened. I slowly read the plaque in front of me - "In this hall the ordinance of secession which withdrew Alabama from the sovereign states was passed on January 11, 1861". On this date and in this exact location, Alabama pulled away from the Union, joining five other states in defiance to the recent election of President Lincoln. The beginning of so much more, for many, many years to come began right here.
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I quickly exit, moving back down the stairs.  I begin searching for a certain something stepping down one step at a time, scanning from corner to corner.  Oh, the adrenaline rush hits again as I pinpoint it.  A six-pointed brass star is embedded in the marble.  This is the exact spot Jefferson Davis publicly accepted the position of the first and only President of the Confederate States on February 18, 1861.  I look out to the street directly in front of this historic spot where our history changed dramatically. I sit on the marble step for a moment as I ponder on how the attendees were feeling in that moment - excited, worried, optimistic?  I believe not one of them had any real idea of the impact of this historic day on our nation for the years to come.

One hundred four years later Martin Luther King Jr and 25,000 people marched to the front of these exact steps protesting the denial of voting rights to blacks. Story to follow soon.
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  • Introduction
  • Maine - Current
  • New Hampshire - Previous
  • States Completed
  • Meeting the Team
  • Doing It Together